Helmut Newton, The Naturalness of Sex [The Best Fashion Photographers]

Adrianna Giotta by Helmut Newton, 2001.

The exile gave to Helmut Newton the first opportunity to professional work as a photographer. Of those last years of 30 fleeing the extermination of the Jews by the nazi on January 23, 2004, the day that dies in a tragic traffic accident. That unknown young photographer in between came to become a genuine legend. A legend of the world of fashion and photography in general.

The inspiration of Yva

Dancer, 1933.

Helmut Newton began in photography as a child, then Helmut Neustädter. 12-year-old bought his first camera thanks to your savings. Four years later his camera AGFA Tengor Box and it would become apprentices of the photographer Yva, who he would learn the domain of portraiture and nudes in black and white.

The work of Yva, known as Else Neulander-Simon Ernestien, It is essential to understand the path that takes the son of a manufacturer of buttons that did not understand the artistic vision of his son, trying through his education at the American College of Berlin that this seen as healthy would continue their business of buttons, which lost due to the nazis.

Legs, 1929.

Yva, who would not face as much luck as part of the family of Newton who fled while she later died in Sobibór extermination camp in 1942, the young photographer had two years of abundant works with women as eyes. There were already a large load of sensuality by then. We speak of the 1930s and photographs in which two legs could attract more than five Playboys today. Not to mention those hands that we see. 1920.

Study of hands, 1920.

Yva was an advanced to his time, daughter of a dressmaker and shopkeeper. Own at age 25 (1925) Studio. Even the marriage with Alfred Simon managed that their Jewish origin does not cause death years later. In 1938 he had to close down his Studio to become a radiology technician. That same year, Helmut Newton picked their two cameras and was leaving to Singapore to escape the nazis. Their parents had done earlier to South America.

Alice Springs, your spouse

June Newton, 1973.

In 1948 Helmut Newton was still stumbling. After unsuccessful passing through the newspaper of Singapore, which was only two months until they contemptuously him, he came to Australia where after a time in a camp of internment for their nationality joined the ranks of the Australian army. In 1945 Helmut Neustädter changes its name as we know it today: Helmut Newton. Three years later he married the actress June Brunell, best known as a photographer Alice Springs.

Yves Saint Laurent and Hazel, 1978.

On this occasion, Alice Springs would not be a new case of Yva, but it would be who would be influenced by Helmut Newton and from the 1970s highlighted as a photographer with covers for Elle, numerous portraits to famous people (Yves Saint Laurent included, in 1978). Everything stems from a chance: Newton was ill and had to fulfill an assignment for the marking of Gitanes cigarettes. To teach a few minimal notions to his wife she took off alone.

Fashion, Dépêche Mode, 1971.
Helmut Newton by June, 1981.

Vogue Australia, his leap into fashion

Vogue Australia, 1964.

We go back to 1946, date in which Newton established his own Studio in Melbourne. From here it begins to gain relevance and soon makes the leap to Vogue Australia where does have a minimal recognition. Australian Edition achieves its first work in 1956 with the supplement of British Vogue. While the opportunity to sign a contract with the head of Vogue and fly to London with a 12 month contract was a dream, a month already is in Paris where still working with French and German magazines.

Vogue Australia December/January 1964-65.

Before settling in Paris in 1961 he spends two years in Melbourne, collaborating again with the Australian head of Vogue. In the gala capital will find the style that will make you unique: find sex. And if it is possible with a touch of perversion that it would then increase. Helmut Newton had just arrived.

Vogue Australia, 1960.
Vogue UK, 1966.
Vogue UK, 1967.
Live, August 1978.
Live, August 1978.

When sex was called sex chic

After Velasquez in my Apartment, 1981.

Until Tom Ford will own of this term, the sex chic, a euphemism to add to the fake correctismo from such business, Helmut Newton showed all their arts. Vogue Paris live a time gilded in the together would attract the controversy to fashion that even today is still latent.

Saddle I, 1976.

The technique of Helmut Newton was very refined. Elegant, black and white in general, with no retouching, committed to natural light and taste for portraying the character.

Monte Carlo, 1994.
Models at Quai d ’ Orsay, 1977.
ELSA Peretti, 1975.
Two Pairs of Legs in Black Stockings, 1979.
Twen, 1969.
16th Arrondissement, 1976.
Paris, 1976.
Astrid Heeren, 1965.
Charlotte Rampling, 1976.
Queen, 1968.

SUMO, the great work

If there is a book on fashion that is SUMO. A copy of the 10,000 who published form numbered and signed came to be sold as the expensive book of the 20th century: by none other than 620,000 frames (around 332.870 euros) on April 6, 2000.

An ambitious project, with exquisite quality and size to have a personal Museum at home. However, a tough stand was necessary to hold its 35.4 kg.

The union with Yves Saint Laurent

Le smoking, 1975.

From the Decade of the 60 German photographer would make larger Yves Saint Laurent of what this is. The union remained for years.

Aubriot Street, 1975.
YSL, 1985.
YSL, 1985.
YSL, 1991.
YSL, 1991.
YSL, 1992.
YSL, 1992.
YSL, 1993.
YSL, 1994.
YSL, 1994.

The famous wanted his camera

Marlene Dietrich.
Linda Evangelista.
Catherine Deneuve.
David Lynch and Isabella Rossellini.
Grace Jones and Dolph Lundgren, 1985.
Mick Jagger.
Twiggy.
Sigourney Weaver.
Raquel Welch.
Madonna.
Patti Hansen and Rene Russo

Passion for legs, passion for Yva

Pina Bausch Ballett Wuppertal, 1983.

Even though it accuses Helmut Newton’s basic and cheap pornography (a real crime) he knew how to get the more sensual side of every inch. He has numerous works of details which abound the legs, like his teacher Yva.

Legs coming home, 1978.
Advertising for Walter Steiger, Monte Carlo, 1983.
X-ray of High Heeled Shoe and Cartier Bracelet, Paris, 1994.

Helmut Newton was one of the photographers who broke the rules, knew how to cause to all those who wanted to not look beyond the images and at the same time inspired much of those who would come after.